Inclusion and Diversity: Committing to Lasting Change in Fashion

Source: Yahoo.com

The call for diversity and inclusion initiatives in fashion is nothing new, yet the year is 2020 and there is still enormous progress to be made. From large luxury powerhouses making racially insensitive mistakes to independent brands posting disingenuous Black Lives Matter posts on Instagram, Generations Y and Z are calling out these style-making entities and taking a stance against a system that has long been broken.

PARIS, France – When the Covid-19 pandemic started making its mark across countries far and wide early this year, no one could have predicted the ensuing chain of events. In the fashion industry, people first started making change by questioning the legitimacy of an outdated fashion calendar, the environmental burden of an international value chain, and the lack of digital transformation within management, selling, and communication systems. Retailers and brands across the globe were forced to halt their business plans, undergo economic hardship, and reassess their core missions. Just when players in the industry started to feel comfortable with their direction again, a strong human rights movement caught fire in the United States and beyond, bringing the magnifying glass even closer to fashion’s out-of-touch practices.

The lack of opportunity, representation, inclusion, and equality of Black individuals is an institutional problem that plagues fashion from design to distribution. Racism not only exists in the American fashion scene, but all over the world. Although this racism may not always be loud and in-your-face, it is easy to spot when looking at the lack of diverse leaders, decision-makers, and influencers. For an industry that serves all types of races, cultures, and identities, fashion is too white.

Source: STYLECASTER

These unprecedented times have given the fashion industry a golden opportunity to change itself from within to reflect a more inclusive, accurate reality. Making needed changes will enrich both companies and individuals, all while making way for innovation and excellence. The future faces and creations of fashion will be greatly impacted by the decisions and commitments made today.

Generational Push

Generations Y and Z already possess huge economic buying power, and Generation Z alone will represent 40% of global consumers this year. Made up of digital natives that put their money where their mouth is, McKinsey & Company found that 90% of Gen Z consumers believe companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social issues. Even though younger generations are pushing the shift towards “woke” consumerism, three-fourths of global consumers across all generations say they would stop buying brands based on their response to controversial issues. The people have spoken; companies cannot stay silent.

“Fashion is moving away from specifically flaunting your style to flaunting your values. It’s almost like a whole new “social-good” street cred.”

Chloe Saintilan, Co-Founder of Merch Aid

Since the murder of George Floyd and countless other racist acts have been brought to light, civil unrest in the US and across the globe have flooded social media feeds with declarations of solidarity. Fashion entities from Chanel to T.J.Maxx have posted messages and imagery to their social media accounts denouncing racism and announcing their companies’ fight for diversity. Responses from industry insiders and consumers, alike, however, show that posting a black square and words of promise is simply not enough. Brands must practice what they preach, even if it means exposing their current problems to make way for advancement. Diversity and inclusion missions must be incorporated at all levels of a company.

Leadership

At the top, studies have found that companies with ethnically and culturally diverse executive teams are 43% more likely to realize higher profits. In fashion, board diversity problems begin at the bottom of the chain: unpaid internships. With the added history of insider networking practices, the playing field is far from level for people of colour. Black and other minority professionals must work harder to receive the same opportunities as their white counterparts in fashion. And when they do succeed, many report that they are tokenized, have to restrain their identity, and experience continued inequality and tone deafness.

“I’ve experienced the fashion industry on both sides of the Atlantic. I’ve had to create my own community. It’s painfully obvious when you go to shows and events and see how few people of colour are in prominent spaces. So, while the industry here has made great progress on the runway with models, behind the scenes is still incredibly homogeneous. When at dinners, or while having idle chitchat before a show, it can feel quite isolating depending on the conversation, cultural reference points, and unconscious biases.”

Kenya Hunt, Deputy Editor, Elle U.K

In order to flip the narrative, fashion institutions need to commit to long-term human capital initiatives. Brands can no longer be applauded just for hiring Black models or collaborating with diverse influencers; this should be the norm. The bar has been set extremely low, and the collective fashion industry must do better to raise this bar. Fashion has a duty to better reflect the people from which it draws inspiration and for which it serves.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBHRflEhsGa/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Through the Pull Up For Change challenge, companies were asked to release the number of Black employees and Black executives within their organizations. This transparency has exposed disproportionate levels of Black underrepresentation and leadership in companies from Revlon to Reformation. As companies own up to their inequality, the movement pushes brands to have at least 10% Black corporate employment moving forward.

Support

Aurora James, founder and creative director of Brother Vellies recently challenged powerful retailers across the US to commit to allocating 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses with the #15PercentPledge. As Black people represent about 15% of the American population, James argues this pledge is the least brands can do to support their consumer communities. Companies must reassess their buying budgets to include Black-owned brands at a higher percentage, which will lead to Black empowerment, greater opportunities, and products that reflect more than one race.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCEcMbWDYS4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

On top of dedicating portions of purchasing budgets to Black businesses, industry players can also fight for change through financial support. Organizations like the Elijah McClain Memorial Fund, The Bail Project, and the Third Wave Fund are change makers that support various Black issues in society. Brands both large and small can provide monetary support to these organizations, even in the middle of an economic crisis. A few ways brands are currently doing their part is through donating profits, auctioning off exclusive items, and matching individual donations.

And although social media solidarity and Black representation in media are not final solutions to the problem, they are a good starting point. Recognizing and admitting existing white privilege, organizational malpractice, and the need to do better brings visibility to the movement. As insincere declarations can be spotted from a mile away, these words need to be followed by dedicated, significant actions.

Change

Lasting change can only be achieved through persistence and agendas. Our current reality is one that is disproportionate, unequal, and under stress. If brands do not use their enormous power to make industries more inclusive today, then this reality will not improve. Ultimately, consumers will not support companies that decline to be a part of the movement or that do nothing to support actionless words.

“Slowly but surely, the fashion industry is beginning to embrace diversity more than ever before. We can see diversity in magazines, on the runway and beyond. I’m thankful that there’s now an awareness and an effort to represent all races and types. We need to continue down this path. We must vow to practice inclusion. It’s so important.”

Karly Loyce, model

Let us listen to Black voices, empower Black talent, and make room for Black excellence in the fashion industry. Let us admit to our mistakes and support a fashion culture that is progressive and inclusive. Let us commit to making real change on every front.

To discover a selection of some of our favorite Black-owned brands, check out the following: Kenneth Ize, Heron Preston, Lisou, Poodle & Blonde, Gilded…

Sources